Sewing machine



P 1931- c. J. SCHUEPBACH 1,800,409

SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 22, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventorv C. J. fichuepbach Att'y.

April 14, 1931- c. J. SCHUEPBACH 1,800,409

SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 22, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Inventor Patented A r. 14. 1931 UNETE. STA

CARROLL J. sonunrnncnr, or xrnkwoon, jMfSSO'UltI, AssIenoB TO rnnnnmoi; rnnrz, or ST. roursgvnssounr v I a I SEWING Application filed December 22, 1928 $eria1 110. 327,819 7 In the accompanying drawings, which 10 illustrate one form of sewingmachine made in accordance with my invention, Figure -1 is an end view; Figure 2 is a front elevation of one end of the machine, some of the parts being broken away; Figure 3 is a section is taken on the line 33 of Figure 1; Figure 4 is a front elevation, on a slightly reduced scale, of the entire machine; Figure 5 is an enlarged section taken on the line 55of Figure 1; Figure 6 is a plan view of a por- 20 tion of the neck of a garment formed by the machine; and Figure 7 is a section taken on the line 77 of Figure 6.

The numeral 8 indicates the head of a sewing machine of usual construction mounted 25 on a work table 9 and provided with a presser foot 10 and a needle bar 11 carrying two needles so as to simultaneously form two parallel rows of stitches. 12 is the main shaft of the machine driven from any suitable source of power and operating the needle bar, shuttles, or loopers and other usual moving parts through mechanism not shown as it may be of any well known construction.

Secured to the work table 9 in alignment with the presser foot is a trough-shaped guide 13 for delivering under the presser foot a strip of tape 14 wound on a reel 15 carried in brackets 16 on the under side .of

the work table. A roller 17 may be secured 40 to the edge of the work table to prevent friction of the tape thereon.

Situated directly above the guide 13 is a second trough-shaped guide 18 for delivering under the presser foot a second strip of tape 19. This tape 19 is wound on a reel 20mounted on an arm 21 carried on a plate 22 secured to the end face of the sewing machine head. This plate also carries a bracket 23 supporting the guide 18 which is inclined so as to provide ample room at the forward endfor the insertion ofjthe gar ment 2tiwhile at the rear end it is almost in contact with the guide 13. The tape 19 as it enters the guide 18 is threaded around pins' 25, as best" shown inFig-ure 5. Thesepins act as a brake or retardingvdevice to prevent surplus tape being drawn into the guide by the rapid motion of the pleating blade.

A thin strip of spring material, preferably steel, forms the pleating blade 26, the lower end of which enters the guide 18 and the upper end ofwhich is secured in a stud v27 carried by a lever 28 pivoted at 29 to the plate 22. A connecting rod 30 extends fromthe upper end of the lever 28 to a wrist pin 31 slidingly mounted in T-slot 32 in a disk 33. The position ofthe wrist pin in the slotmay be adjusted by means of a screw 34 to vary the length of the stroke of the'pleatin blade.

A short shaft 35 jo-urnaled in the p ate 22 carries the disk and a gear wheel 36fmeshing with a gearwheel 37 on a shaft 38 extending to the opposite end of the machine head'and connected through a train of gearing 39 with the driving shaft 12 of the machine. I This 1 train of gearing is so proportioned that it, together'withthe wheels 36 and 37, will make the necessary reduction in speed so that,,for

example,t he pleating blade will vibrate once 7 to each ten strokes of the needle bar. The train of gearing is enclosed in a gear casing 40 mounted on the machine head, and has interposedin it a clutch' ll or equivalent means for throwing the shaft 38-into and out of engagement with theshaft 12. A finger lever 42 controls the action of the clutch, I

The operation of my machine is as follows The two tapes 14 and 19 are passed through the guides 13 and 18, respectively, and p0sitioned under thepresser foot. The material .24: of the garmentmay now be fed between the two layers of tape, as shown in Figure 5, and stitched together as shown at "the left hand end of. Figure 7 When the point in the work is reached where it is desired to form hook engaging pockets, the lever 42 is moved to throw the shaft 38 into operative engagement with the shaft 12 when the pleating blade will be vibrated to fold the upper tape 19 into pleats which are firmly secured i,

to the material 24 by the rows of parallel stitches 43. As soon as the desired number of pleats are formed the lever 42 is moved in reverse direction to render the pleating mechanism inoperative and the work finished. The operation of forming the neck band is thus continuous as it is unnecessary to stop the'machine when the pleating device is throwninto or out of operation. The width of the pleats may be varied as desired by turning the screw 34 to move the wristpin 81 toward or away from the center of the disk 33, thus changing the length of stroke of the pleating blade. 7

While my machine is particularly designed forforming hook engaging pockets in the neck bands of garments, such as described in the David patent above referred to, it may be'used for other purposes where it is desired to form pleats in a tape or similar narrow strip of material. a r Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 7 1. In a device of the class described, the combination with a sewing machine head including a presser foot and needle bar, of a supporting member secured to said head,a tape guide carried by said supporting member and terminating adjacent to said presser foot, a lever pivoted to the supporting member, apleating blade on said lever and cooperating with said guide, a shaft mountedin' said supporting member, an adjustable wrist pin carried by said shaft, connections between said wrist pin and lever, connections from said shaft to the needle bar actuating mecha ni'sm, and clutch mechanism interposed in said latter named connections.

2. In a device of the class described, the combination witha sewing machine head including a presser foot and needle bar, of a supporting member secured to-said head, a

tape guide carried by said supporting member and terminating adjacent tosaidpresser foot, a lever pivoted to thesupporting member, a pleating blade on said lever and '00- operating with said guide, a shaft mounted in said supporting member, an adjustable wrist pin carried by said shaft, connections between said wrist pin and lever, a gear wheel on said shaft, a second shaft extending to the rear of the machine and provided with a gear wheel meshing with said first named gear Wheel, reduction gearing between said second named shaft and the needle bar actuating mechanlsm, and a clutch lnterposed in said reduction gearlng.

In testimony whereof, I hereunto afliX my I signature, this 20th day of December, 1928. CARROLL J. SCHUEPBACH. 

